Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
